Day #25. 0.00 km

Evidently there is some controversy among those claiming to be the end of the Camino:  Santiago, Finisterre, and Muxia.  All along the Camino I have been thinking that I would like to go to what, in the Middle Ages, was considered the end of the world- Finisterre or Fisterre.  At our little hotel, señor Linares knew about a young man who did small tours to Finisterre and Muxia.  So I signed myself up (Marty couldn't go because Bill was arriving early afternoon and the tour wouldn't be back by then) and found myself in a little van with 4 people from Calgary and a woman (a gynecologist) from Berlin, all
of whom had walked from Sarria.

Our guide, and owner of the little tour company, Martin spoke Spanish, Galician, English, Finnish and a bit of Polish.  His mother is Finnish, his father Spanish and his wife's parents Polish.  And we think we have a "melting pot" in the US.  Our first stop was a 700 year old bridge that survived a terrible flood that carried away some more modern bridges a few years ago.

The next stop was Muxia where there is a 0.00 km marker.  The end of the film, The Way, was actually filmed here even though they referred to it as Finisterre.  There I am standing where maybe Martin Sheen stood at the end of the world.

After Muxia, we motored down along the Costa do Morte (Coast of Death) so named because of all the ship wrecks that have happened over the centuries because of the dangerous currents, unpredictable weather, and hidden rocks.  Our destination was the last 0.00km marker at Finisterre.  It's impossible  to get close to the water there as the road leads to an old lighthouse on a high cliff.  I got my pilgrim credential stamped there for the last time.

Two more stops took us to a place where the only river in Europe enters the ocean in a waterfall and from where you can see a mountain which is difficult to climb - as Martin put it, "There are 2 trails up the mountain, one of which is very difficult, the other impossible."  According to him there is some evidence that the mountain was sacred to the pre-Christian Celtic Druids, and the whole place has not been explored.

The last stop finally, was lunch at a restaurant on the beach, run by a Galician guy who had returned to Spain after living for a long time in New York City.  I had a really wonderful grilled cod with the ubiquitous fried patatas.  After eating I got to walk down to the beach and put my feet into the ocean and collect a few stones.  

Back to the hotel at 6:30 to greet Bill and start our Portugal vacation.  0.00 km of the Camino.

Day #24 one day post arrival in Santiago

We slept in until 8:30 am which felt like real luxury in our shabby little artists' garret like room.  Had coffee and toast in our familiar cafe across the street, packed up and found our way using the city map to the hotel a bit farther from the cathedral where we would stay for the next two days so we could unburden ourselves of our packs.

Then we went back to the cathedral for the noon mass for peregrinos.  Even though we were an hour early, all the seats were taken, but we sat ourselves on the base of a column in the nave where e would have a good view of the botofumiero.  It was a lovely mass -  someone from a Spanish group walking on behalf of people with Alzheimer's spoke and the priest spoke about the Camino we just walked and the Camino that we live everyday.  THEN the botofumiero.  Seven men dressed in magenta robes came out and untied a very long rope with seven smaller ropes attached to the end.  They lowered the fumiero (incense burner), and the priest lit the incense.  Then they raised it and began a sort of choreography of pulling on the ropes so that the fumiero swung back and forth, higher and higher.  When it swung put toward a side they released the rope so that it swung almost the the far ceiling of the nave.  As it swung back, they pulled on the rope to raise it so that as it passed the altar in the middle, it didn't hit the floor.  Watching it was amazing and very dramatic and moving.  Again, I had tears in my eyes at being able to see this ancient ritual.

Though we were told not to take pictures, many people were doing so - so I felt justified to video with my camera.  I don't know if it will really capture the experience, but I hope it will at least a little.  After the mass, we waited in line to go up the narrow stairs behind the altar to hug the apostle - St. James - which is a tradition for those who finish the Camino.

After mass, we had a bit to eat and then went shopping.  I was totally sick of the 2 hiking outfits I've worn for a month, so we went in search of a couple of pants and tops to vary the wardrobe.  We found some things for not much money plus a cute pair of leather saddles made in Spain.  Our day was complete.

Our hotel is really great - small and very personal.  And there is a beautiful garden in back where you can have drinks at little stone tables.

Day #24. Some Thanks

I want to offer some thanks to all the friends and family who gave me support, encouragement and helpful suggestions:  to my sons, Weber, Morgan, and Ethan who stayed in touch by email and said nice things about my blog; to Irma Valeriano, the voice of experience, who made lovely poetic comments on the blog and made helpful suggestions; to Carlos Cervantes (Irma's son) who is taking such wonderful care of Sunny; to Kevin Gallagher on whom I depend to take care of any business that needs attention while I'm away and who has left lots of comments on the blog; to John Edwards, living in my little apartment, for his emails about the garden, the dog and the house; to Georgia for telling me to lean forward from the waist a bit when going downhill to save my knees; to Dan Curry, neighbor and physical therapist, who advised me to use Gold Bond powder in my socks every day to avoid blisters (I never had one blister); to my Wellesley classmate, Betty Falsey, who taught me how to tie a double knot in one operation that could be untied with one strong pull; to Kris and Lynne and Suzy and Catherine and Brooks and other friends who sent such encouraging messages; and finally, to all my ancestors  from whom I acquired a sturdy body and strong mind to do this Camino -- especially to my little shrek feet who carried so much weight for 6 to 8 hours each day, day after day, for 3 weeks.

And of course, a thank you to Marty for enduring my bossiness, my impatience and my anxiety about being on time.  Our friendship was tried and came through intact.  We learned a lot from each other in this intense experience.

Day #23 Amenal to SANTIAGO 17 km

We left Hotel Amenal at about 7:00 am after coffee, traveling for more than an hour in the dark which we hadn't done in several days.  At the beginning we felt like we were walking through a tunnel because the ground on either side of the trail was as high as our heads.  After we passed through that part, we entered a forest of tall eucalyptus trees.  As we got out of the woods dawn was breaking though it was quite overcast.  We found ourselves walking faster than usual with still lots of people passing us.  There was a general sense of excitement about getting to Santiago which was contagious.  Neither of us had slept well the night before -- we attributed it to excitement about reaching our destination and some anxiety about what it would be like to not be walking any more, to lose our identity as peregrinas.

We had to climb a little mountain before getting to Samtiago, and I thought we might get a spectacular view of the city from the top, but it was too foggy and hazy.  What we did find was a huge pilgrim monument commemorating pope John Paul II.  Over the years many people had left things in remembrance of others or in celebration.  I took a few minutes and left the oyster shell I had brought as a symbol of my walk for Caellen's health.

Soon we reached the entrance to the city marked by a big sign at 11:00 am and I thought maybe we would be in time for the pilgrim mass.  But, it took us a good hour or more  to make our way through the outskirts and the modern part of the city to get to the old part.  It is a much, much bigger city than I ever imagined!

Finally, we reached one of the plazas surrounding the huge cathedral and went down through a sort of tunnel and emerged into the largest square in front of the most dramatic west facing facade which is the universal symbol of Santiago.  I suddenly felt choked up with tears and emotion which took me by surprise.  We had arrived!  Our 351 km ( 218 miles) walk was over.  

We went to find the Oficina de Peregrinos and found a long line of pilgrims waiting to submit there pilgrim credential and receive the Compostella, certificate of completion.  We joined the line, and after an hour and a half of congenial conversation with a Spqnish couple from Zaragoza, we got our certificates.  During our time in line a woman came along soliciting guests for her Hospedaje nearby.  Marty agreed to go look at it while I held our place in line.  She came back giggling and rolling her eyes, but she had paid and gotten the keys.

Our room in Hospedaje La Cruz is what you might call "shabby chic" --  well, forget the chic.  Morgan and Ethan might remember LaPetit in Costa Rica (without the scorpions).  It's saving grace is that there are 2 huge floor to ceiling windows which look out on a view of one of the cathedral towers.  At one time it probably was very chic.

Marty had read about a free pilgrim dinner offered by the Hotel Dos Reis Catolicos,, known as the oldest and best hotel in Europe, to the first 10 pilgrims waiting in the portico below the main entrance at 7:00.  So we went at 6:00, but 10 people were already there -  2 suddenly decided to leave so we were in!  It was quite an interesting experience.  This very fancy hotel has been doing this for centuries evidently as their service to pilgrims.  We met some fascinating people: an Italian conductor, a German artist,  a Norwegian young woman writing a dissertation on the therapeutic effect of walking, and a German woman who had walked the Camino sleeping in barns, abandoned houses etc.  BUT the food was awful - there was a lot of it, but it was the worst meal we'd had on the Camino.

Day #22 Burres to Amenal. About 18 km

This is our last night as pilgrims walking to Santiago de Compostella.  Tomorrow we arrive there after a 16.5 km walk.  At this point we find that we can walk along at a pretty good pace for quite a distance without feeling pain or exhaustion.  It helps that the countryside in Galicia is so beautiful, the hills are gentle, and the temperature is very comfortable.  Since we will be getting there a day early, I'm hoping that we can take a bus out to Finisterre to see the ocean and the place that ancient pilgrims thought was the end of the world.

We left our lovely little Albergue at about 8:30 am after a really great night's sleep and the usual tostada and cafe con leche.  We walked for a couple of hours until we stopped at a cafe where we found our German gentlemen again having beer.  ( It's a mystery to me how people can drink beer in the morning and then continue walking for hours).  We had coffe and split a sandwich and walked on to Pedrouzo ( another short stop for ice cream).  The weather began to look ominous, and we didn't have reservations anywhere.  Our plan had been to walk to Amenal, but we found out the only lodging there, a hotel, cost €55, and Marty, the frugal one of us, objected to spending that much.  But as we walked, and as we felt a few raindrops and heard some distant thunder, and the legs began to ache, she was more agreeable to the idea.

So we arrived, found the hotel, checked in, showered and had a great dinner.  I bought us a bottle of good wine to celebrate being in the final stage of our journey.  I had scallops broiled and served on scallop shells,  one of which I've saved.  Tomorrow we plan to leave very early --  maybe we will get there in time for the noon mass for peregrinos in the cathedral.  16 km in 5 hours - maybe.

The first photo is of our Albergue last night.

Day # 21 Melide to Burre about 1 km off the. Camino (Albergue Camiño das Ocas). 22km

As I said in yesterday's post, we planned to walk 21 km today.  In this stage, the one before the final Santiago stage, the Albergues are few and far between -  at least within the distance we wanted to walk.  We decided to reserve ahead for this reason -- the first time we've done so.  The Albergue Camiño das Ocas was a short way off the Camino according to the map, but we weren't clear at all where to turn off.  

So we started out at about 8:00, thinking we would stop around 11:00 for lunch.  We stopped a bit earlier at a nice little picnic area for a snack ( the usual cheese and chorizo), then walked on until we came across a nice cafe near Arzua that offered fried eggs and bacon that I wanted and lentil soup that Marty wanted.  Soon 2 German guys we had talked with briefly at the pulperia stopped in and visited with us as they drank their beer.  The very talkative one was a retired pharmacist from Heidleburg.  They planned to bus from Arzua to Santiago.

Anyway we walked on through shady eucalyptus woods and very prosperous looking farmland and houses with manicured gardens.  Since we weren't passing through any hamlets with names, we couldn't really tell how far along the way we were.  At about 2:30, we came to a croosroad with a handmade sign that said "Albergue" with an arrow pointing the the left.  We didn't think we had walked far enough for that to be our Albergue, so we walked on another half km or so until we came across a peregrino sitting in the yard of a Casa soaking her feet.  We asked the señora of the casa "donde estamos?",  and found out that the sign we passed WAS the sign to our Albergue.  So back we went to the sign and turned down the road which began to feel very remote until we came to a road and found the place.

It is a great little place, very new, and we are in a bunk room with 2 bunk beds but we have the whole room to ourselves for €10 each.  There are about 15 other people here - all older people like us, German and French speaking.  Across the hall is an Austrian man and his 24 year old daughter.  Unless we wanted to cook our own dinner, which one group did, our choice was frozen pizza which was just fine with beer.  As we ate, a big thunderstorm came up and it has been thundering and gusting and pouring rain since.  We consider ourselves lucky again to have the rain start after we are tucked away in our cozy little bunk room.  We'll see what tomorrow brings --  how much closer to Santiago we will get given the weather.

Day #20 Palas de Reí to Melide 15 km

We decided to stop in Melide today because it has a pulpería, Exequiel's, which is famous for its pulpo (octopus) and because it would have been another 6 km or to the next Albergues.  It was another pleasant, easy walk -- some blue skies with big clouds as usual, but no rain until we were approaching Melide, but, of course, by the time we put on rain gear, it had stopped.  Lots of peregrinos walking, but often we found ourselves alone on a stretch of the way.   The Michigan couple passed us and said they had looked for us last night in Palas de Rei because it turned out the place they reserved ahead was a whole apartment and they would have invited us to join them and make dinner together.  Too bad -- would have been nice.  The Albergue we stayed in was very new and had good facilities -- but still.

Today on the way here somehow we decided on the name of a place that offered habitaciones privadas, El Molino, and found it with the help of directions from a local.  It was a bar/cafe, but the señor in charge led us around the corner and down kind of a sketchy street to a different building where he showed us to our room with a bath which is great -- except for the Donald Duck bedspread on one of the beds -- for only €25.  So we're only paying €2.50 more each than we would in a dormitorio.  I don't know that there are any other peregrinos here - it's not a communal kind of place -  but it's nice to have our own space every few days.

We've had time and energy to explore the city a bit.  It's a nice little city - wonderful old Romanesque church and a museum with lots of relics, and a more upscale area where some of the newer Albergues are.  The pulpo was great though Marty is not a fan.  Tomorrow we plan an ambitious day of 21 km, and that will leave us 2 days of 16.5 km each to get to Santiago.

Day #19. Gonzar to Palas de Rei. 17 km 5 hours

What wonders an afternoon and night of good rest and a blue sky can make.  We slept in a bit - until 6:30, had toast and cafe con leche (a typical Spanish breakfast), and set off about 8:30 with rain gear at the ready.  At first the clouds were threatening, but finally cleared and blue sky triumphed.  It was a pretty easy walk, no huge hills, so we walked a little faster than usual.  I was feeling so much better and stronger than the day before.  As we walked we talked briefly with 2 women from London, and met a couple from Michigan at a cafe. 

 We  ran into 2 women we had met in our Albergue in Mercadoiro, Rosa from Cuba who now lives in Florida and Sue from Bainbridge

Island in Washington. They had decided to abandon the Camino and tour other places in Spain.  It's interesting to observe how others are walking the Camino.  Some make reservations ahead and send their backpacks ahead by taxi staying only in hotels, or places where they can have private rooms.  Many, mostly young people, stay only in dormitorios, carry their packs and cook their own food in the Albergue kitchen.  Some, particularly since Sarria, are with tour groups like a group of 32 Irish people we met.

Day #18. Mercadoiro to Gonzar a puny 13.4 km or 8.3 miles

Today was a really off day.  We both woke up a bit grouchy and irritated at each other.  We didn't get started walking until after 8:00 am, and it was raining - not hard,  but steady.  The walk was a gradual uphill for a long way, not particularly difficult, but also not very interesting.  The sky was completely overcast in various shades of gray, the wind was very blustery and so the landscape didn't appear as friendly and magical as it did yesterday.  My pack felt heavier, my legs and feet ached and I felt like I was working really hard.  

Our intention had been to get to Ventas de Naron which would have been a 18 km day which seemed very doable the night before.  But outside of Gonzar, we passed a little billboard ad for Casa Garcia - private rooms, washer and dryer, fireplace -  it looked really tempting, but we pressed on past the turn off for Casa Garcia to a cafe where many pilgrims were resting and eating.  We stopped, had coffee and discussed how I was feeling, how much further we had to go to another Albergue ( 5 miles), and the time.  It was 1:00.  Part of me thought we should keep going - another part, my intuition I think, was saying you may really regret going on, you're too tired.  It's hard for me often to give in to what I see as weakness.  When Marty remarked that if we went on it would be 3:00 before we got to the next place and we might have problems finding a bed or room, the decision was made.  

We went back a short way to the turn off to Casa Garcia and found a wonderfully welcoming little casa

and took a cozy room with a shared bath that had a great tub.  We had our laundry done, took baths and naps, and then had one of the best dinners ever:  caldo Gallego, grilled salmon and flan.  We shared our table with a very nice Japonese man who spoke very little English and a young man from Switzerland.  It turned a gray day into a happy one!

Day #17 Sarria to Mercadoiro (a little hamlet 5 km or so outside of Portomarin)

Today was overall one of the most beautiful and enjoyable walks we've had so far.  We left Sarria as dawn was breaking - a little later than usual because we decided to have coffee and a bit to eat before setting out.  It was clear and cool.  After an hour or more of walking, as we passed a big field of sunflowers , it began to rain, so we had a big scramble to get rain gear on.  We walked on through small hamlets and farmyards,  through woods with ancient trees full of birds singing,  through open fields with views of stone walls and cows grazing.  The rain stopped and the sun shone through billowy white clouds and then the wind would blow rain clouds over again with more gentle rain.  At one point we could hear a farmer sort of yodeling or something in the distance.  We stopped mid morning in a little grove where there was a big rock to sit on and shared an orange.

There are many more peregrinos on the road now, but mostly they pass us.  We had decided to stop before Portomarin if we liked the looks of the Albergue in Mercadoiro.  As we came upon it at about 1:30 pm, it was an instant "Yes! This is it!"  It is an Albergue in the middle of the countryside - a patio with tables and umbrellas, hammocks to nap in -  run by two enterprising young men.  We have bunks in a room with 2 German girls, 2 Japonese women our age, and a couple.  A very satisfying day!