Then we went back to the cathedral for the noon mass for peregrinos. Even though we were an hour early, all the seats were taken, but we sat ourselves on the base of a column in the nave where e would have a good view of the botofumiero. It was a lovely mass - someone from a Spanish group walking on behalf of people with Alzheimer's spoke and the priest spoke about the Camino we just walked and the Camino that we live everyday. THEN the botofumiero. Seven men dressed in magenta robes came out and untied a very long rope with seven smaller ropes attached to the end. They lowered the fumiero (incense burner), and the priest lit the incense. Then they raised it and began a sort of choreography of pulling on the ropes so that the fumiero swung back and forth, higher and higher. When it swung put toward a side they released the rope so that it swung almost the the far ceiling of the nave. As it swung back, they pulled on the rope to raise it so that as it passed the altar in the middle, it didn't hit the floor. Watching it was amazing and very dramatic and moving. Again, I had tears in my eyes at being able to see this ancient ritual.
Though we were told not to take pictures, many people were doing so - so I felt justified to video with my camera. I don't know if it will really capture the experience, but I hope it will at least a little. After the mass, we waited in line to go up the narrow stairs behind the altar to hug the apostle - St. James - which is a tradition for those who finish the Camino.
After mass, we had a bit to eat and then went shopping. I was totally sick of the 2 hiking outfits I've worn for a month, so we went in search of a couple of pants and tops to vary the wardrobe. We found some things for not much money plus a cute pair of leather saddles made in Spain. Our day was complete.
Our hotel is really great - small and very personal. And there is a beautiful garden in back where you can have drinks at little stone tables.
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