Day #23 Amenal to SANTIAGO 17 km

We left Hotel Amenal at about 7:00 am after coffee, traveling for more than an hour in the dark which we hadn't done in several days.  At the beginning we felt like we were walking through a tunnel because the ground on either side of the trail was as high as our heads.  After we passed through that part, we entered a forest of tall eucalyptus trees.  As we got out of the woods dawn was breaking though it was quite overcast.  We found ourselves walking faster than usual with still lots of people passing us.  There was a general sense of excitement about getting to Santiago which was contagious.  Neither of us had slept well the night before -- we attributed it to excitement about reaching our destination and some anxiety about what it would be like to not be walking any more, to lose our identity as peregrinas.

We had to climb a little mountain before getting to Samtiago, and I thought we might get a spectacular view of the city from the top, but it was too foggy and hazy.  What we did find was a huge pilgrim monument commemorating pope John Paul II.  Over the years many people had left things in remembrance of others or in celebration.  I took a few minutes and left the oyster shell I had brought as a symbol of my walk for Caellen's health.

Soon we reached the entrance to the city marked by a big sign at 11:00 am and I thought maybe we would be in time for the pilgrim mass.  But, it took us a good hour or more  to make our way through the outskirts and the modern part of the city to get to the old part.  It is a much, much bigger city than I ever imagined!

Finally, we reached one of the plazas surrounding the huge cathedral and went down through a sort of tunnel and emerged into the largest square in front of the most dramatic west facing facade which is the universal symbol of Santiago.  I suddenly felt choked up with tears and emotion which took me by surprise.  We had arrived!  Our 351 km ( 218 miles) walk was over.  

We went to find the Oficina de Peregrinos and found a long line of pilgrims waiting to submit there pilgrim credential and receive the Compostella, certificate of completion.  We joined the line, and after an hour and a half of congenial conversation with a Spqnish couple from Zaragoza, we got our certificates.  During our time in line a woman came along soliciting guests for her Hospedaje nearby.  Marty agreed to go look at it while I held our place in line.  She came back giggling and rolling her eyes, but she had paid and gotten the keys.

Our room in Hospedaje La Cruz is what you might call "shabby chic" --  well, forget the chic.  Morgan and Ethan might remember LaPetit in Costa Rica (without the scorpions).  It's saving grace is that there are 2 huge floor to ceiling windows which look out on a view of one of the cathedral towers.  At one time it probably was very chic.

Marty had read about a free pilgrim dinner offered by the Hotel Dos Reis Catolicos,, known as the oldest and best hotel in Europe, to the first 10 pilgrims waiting in the portico below the main entrance at 7:00.  So we went at 6:00, but 10 people were already there -  2 suddenly decided to leave so we were in!  It was quite an interesting experience.  This very fancy hotel has been doing this for centuries evidently as their service to pilgrims.  We met some fascinating people: an Italian conductor, a German artist,  a Norwegian young woman writing a dissertation on the therapeutic effect of walking, and a German woman who had walked the Camino sleeping in barns, abandoned houses etc.  BUT the food was awful - there was a lot of it, but it was the worst meal we'd had on the Camino.